Nanga Parbat and K2 are only two 8000ers, which are never climbed in winters, both lie in Pakistan. Significant progress on Kinshofer route has been made today by Italian climber Daniele Nardi, Spanish climber Alex Txikon and Pakistani climbers Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan. They established camp 4 at 7200 meters on Thursday (March 12, 2015), from this camp they will launch attack on summit on Friday (March 13, 2015) at 2 a.m. local Pakistani time. It will take them around 12 hours to reach the summit from camp 4, weather is favorable, wind is holding around 25 Km/h and chill level on Friday will stay around -50 degrees.
Message received from Alex: “Technical part of climb is accomplished, rest of terrain is technically easy, we can climb with one ice ax and one pole. We are exhausted but full of hope. We are around 900 meter short of summit, which is a lot at this altitude. We sleep now.”
First contact was made by base at 7 a.m. in the morning, It was informed to climbers that wind will not be strong anymore and weather will hold, which gives them real chances to launch attack at summit. It was revealed by Alex that he could only sleep around 4 hours last night in camp 3 at 6700 meters, wind was shaking the tent all night. The day is sunny but it is too cold in camp 3, even a little winds makes us feel too cold.
Second contact was made at 10:30 a.m. Alex informed base that Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan has already left camp 3 with light backpacks, they are only carrying rope. They will fix rope from camp 3 to camp 4, Daniele Nardi and Alex Txikon will follow them carrying weight around 20-25 kg each. Alex told base that around 7 hours climb was on their way, fatigue and altitude have started to show up, they will move slow, climb is less technical than previous days but its physically demanding and testing psychological strength of climbers.
There was less blue ice in today’s climb, the route from camp 2 to camp 3 was all about blue ice pitches which made climb very difficult. Today climb is less difficult, but altitude is all over us, We move slow to save strength for tomorrow. They reached camp 4 in around 6 hours, 500 vertical meters from camp 3 to camp 4.
Next contact was made at 4:40 p.m. Pakistani time, when Alex informed base that we are feeling good but we are carrying too much weight. This was the point when Muhammad Khan decided to turn back, he said my legs cannot go on anymore and wanted to return to base camp today (March 12). The main reason was lack of acclimatization for him, Alex, Ali and Daniele had already spent a night at camp 3 (6700 meter) in second rotation, Muhammad Khan had not, probably it was altitude forced him down.
The last contact was made at 6 p.m. local time, when Alex informed base that camp is ready, they drink water, eat and sleep. They will sleep some hours and start attack on summit at 2 a.m. on March 13th. The weather is good for summit day, hopes are high. If they reached summit, it will be first ever winter summit of Nanga Parbat.
Nanga Parbat can also become part of this list.
8000ers Climbed in winters
1980, Feb, 17 Everest, 8848 Leszek Chichy and Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland)
1980 Jan, 12 Manaslu 8156 Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski (Poland)
1982 Dec, 13 Dhaulagiri 8167 Akio Koidzumi (Japan) and Nima Vangchu (Nepal)
1985 Jan, 21 Dhaulagiri 8167 Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka (Poland)
1985 Feb, 12 Cho Oyu 8201 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski (Poland)
1985 Feb, 15 Cho Oyu 8201 Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka(Poland)
1985 Dec, 5 Cho Oyu 8201 Becik Dusan and Stejskal Jaromir (Slovakia)
1986 Jan, 11 Kangchenjunga 8586 Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland)
1987 Dec, 20 Annapurna 8091 KobayashiI Toshiyuki, Saegusa Teruo, Saito Yasuhira
Yamada Noboru (Japan)
1987 Feb, 3 Annapurna 8091 Artur Hajzer and Jerzy Kukuczka (Poland)
1988 Dec, 31 Lhotse 8516 Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland)
1988 Feb, 6 Cho Oyu 8201 Manuel Gonzalez, Manuel Morales and Manuel Salazar (Spane)
1989 Dec, 20 Yalung Kang 8505 Kyo-Sup Jin (KOrea) and Ang Dawa and Tsering Tshemba (Nepal)
1993 Feb, 8 Cho Oyu 8201 Fernando Guerra (Spane)
1993 Feb, 10 Cho Oyu 8201 Miguel Angel Sanchez (Argentina) and Marianne Chapuisart (Swiss)
1993 Dec, 18 Everest, 8848 Fumiaki Goto and Hydeji Nazuka (Japan)
1993 Dec, 20 Everest, 8848 Shinsuke Ezuka and Osamu Tanabe (Japan)
1993 Dec, 22 Everest, 8848, Yoshio Ogata and Ryushi Hoshino (Japan)
1994 Jan, 26Cho Oyu 8201 Juanjo Garra and Jordi Magrina (Spane)
1995 Dec, 8 Manaslu 8156 Yuri Moiseev, Anatoly Boukreev, Alexander Baimakhanov, Shavhat Gataulin, Dmitry Sobolev, Oleg Malikov, Dmitry Muravjev and Vladimir Suviga(Kazakhstan)
1998 Dec, 6 Manaslu 8156 Young-Seok Park (Korea)
2002 Dec, 3 Cho Oyu 8201 Alberto Inurrategi (Spane) and Jon Beloki
2004 Dec, 11 Shishapangma 8013 Jean-Christophe Lafaille (France)
2005 Jan, 14 Shishapangma 8013 Simone Moro (Italy) and Piotr Morawski (Poland)
2009 Feb, 9 Makalu 8481 Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan) and Simone Moro (Italy)
2011 Feb, 2 Gasherbrum II 8035 Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan), Simone Moro (Italy), Cory Richards (USA)
2012 9 марта Gasherbrum I 8080 Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab ( Poland)
2013 5 марта Broad peak 8051 Adam Bielecki, Maciej Berbeka , Artur Malek, Tomasz Kowalski. (Poland)
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